Tucked away, not far from Braga in Northern Portugal, is a remarkable place. I visited on my scouting trip to last spring. Does it belong on every garden tour itinerary for Northern Portugal? It depends!
It is not a garden per se, so the purists might say “No, let’s not waste our precious time here”. I agree that horticulturally it is not worth the visit. Yet I wouldn’t want to miss it, and I will be visiting again in just a few weeks. Why? Because it addresses on a deep level what the meaning of a garden is and why man feels the need to cultivate the land, sculpt the landscape and generally leave a mark on nature.
I am talking about the monastery of Sao Martinho de Tibaes, in Mire de Tibaes, about a 20 minute drive from Braga. Founded in the 11th century, the monastery served as the mother house of the Benedictine order in Portugal and Brazil from 1567 to 1834.
The complex we can visit today was built for the most part in the 18th century. In the 17th and 18th centuries it was the site of considerable artistic activity and had huge influence on the Baroque and Rococo art of Northern Portugal. It was built to house several hundred monks and included all the infrastructure necessary to support a community of that size – vegetable gardens, vineyards, orchards, not to mention the buildings proper - a chapel, two cloisters, an enormous meeting room know as the chapter room, a library and cells for the monks.
Secularized in the 19th century, the church became a parish church and the monastery private property. During the 20th century, the complex fell into disrepair. In 1986 the Portuguese state stepped in and purchased the property. Extensive restoration works were undertaken to preserve the buildings.
Walking through the monastery, the visitor is impressed by the size – this is a far cry from the tiny and frugal cells one would find in a Franciscan community. It helps to remember that the Benedictines are an order that values reading and education. A friar would spend his days reading and praying. That would explain the size of the cells. There is room here for the body to stretch and the mind to wander. The sweeping views of the landscape from the wide windows elevate the soul.
Most impressive is the chapter room, flooded with light from generous windows.
The lower walls are adorned with 18th century azulejos representing biblical scenes. Above, portraits of the priors that headed the monastery over the course of its almost 300 years look benevolently down at the visitor.
In stark contrast to the plainly decorated cells, the splendid baroque church in the rococo style is a wonder to behold. It gives an inkling of the wealth and opulence of the monastic life the friars must have led here in the complex’s heyday.
The Gardens
Stepping outside, the map that is given to the visitor at the entrance is most helpful. Indeed, the paths are
overgrown. Exploring the grounds is not going to be a leisurely walk but rather more of a hike. At times the way is confusing and unclear, but the ancient trees are beautiful, and their dappled
shade sets the tone. There are some steps, some still in a good state of repair, others a mere hint of what they once were.
The first stop is a large pond with a waterfall, in the shadow of centenary trees. There is the sound of running water, drowning out thoughts and the noise of everyday
life.
The mood is meditative and a bit mysterious but not oppressive, as the tree canopies are high and the pond is large and wide. There is room for the mind to let go of earthly cares and prepare the spirit to soar.
Eventually, the visitor reaches a little chapel, set on a terrace at the top of the hill. It is the chapel of Saint Benedict, patron saint of the monastery. We are in Portugal after all, so it is no wonder that there are tiles on the retaining walls.
A few steps lead up to the chapel, but it is closed. Standing at the top of the steps the visitor has reached the highest point. Below is a fountain, the opening note to the water staircase which leads the visitor back down to the main complex.
All the way at the bottom of the staircase is another fountain. Once upon a time, when it was still in use, it must have gathered the flowing water of the staircase. Its splendid and imposing shape is an indication of how grand it must have been, back then.
The walk uphill through the woods, the chapel at the top, the many water features are all meant as a meditation, a spiritual journey for the visitor. The hardships of the climb can be construed as penance, and the water as cleansing. At the highest point, the chapel stands for spiritual fulfilment. Descending the staircase, along flowing water that drowns out all other thoughts and sounds, the visitor can meditate upon the new path to take, now that the burden of sin is lifted.
Today the gardens are, to be kind, unkempt. It takes imagination to see what they once were and a bit of daring to go up those slippery and uneven paths. But the spirit of place is very much still here.
I felt a strong connection to the landscape, the sky, the heavens. I could well picture the monks, on their meditative walk up the now ruined steps. I could feel how this garden provided then, as it still does now, a transition and hence a connection between nature and the powers that made it, and man. Could it be that cultivating the landscape and leaving one’s mark on the landscape, is a way to connect with the spiritual world?
Why do we visit gardens? For inspiration and ideas for our own gardens; because beautifully cultivated plants, harmonious spaces, are pleasing to the eye and the soul. The Monastery of São Martinho de Tibaes makes clear why we garden at all: it is a way to assert our connection with nature, our connection to a larger whole.
Is this a garden, a place worth visiting? If you are willing to engage in the more philosophical and existential meaning of gardens, then absolutely.
Sources: Wikipedia
I look forward to sharing a garden adventure with you soon!
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