A Bit of History
If today Menton is firmly French, it wasn’t always so. It was only in 1861 that it officially became part of the Alpes-Maritimes department. Before that, it was briefly an independent city-state, and prior to that, a territory of the Grimaldi family, the rulers of Monaco. Their interest in Menton was a practical one – arable land. Unlike Monaco, a rocky outcrop with little space for cultivation, Menton was a fertile patchwork of citrus groves, vineyards, and vegetable plots.
Menton’s transition to France coincided with another transformation: the arrival of the railroad. Suddenly, this quiet agricultural town became a sought-after destination for health-conscious travelers drawn by its gentle climate. Among them was Dr. James Henry Bennet (1816-1891), a British physician suffering from tuberculosis. He found himself cured by Menton’s air and went on to publish a treatise extolling its benefits, sparking an influx of visitors from across Europe.
The British were particularly enchanted, but the town also attracted Russian aristocrats, German intellectuals, and, famously, Queen Victoria, who appreciated Menton’s refined yet relaxed atmosphere, a welcome contrast to the busier hubs of the Riviera.
Today, Menton still carries the echoes of its grand past. A town of gardens, museums, and a beautifully preserved old quarter, it even boasts its own heritage department – a rare distinction for a place of its size.
Gardens
Menton is home to at least five significant gardens, most of them jardins d’acclimatation, designed to nurture exotic plants in the Mediterranean sun. Among them, two stand out as unmissable.
Serre de la Madone
For me, Serre de la Madonne is Menton’s most beguiling garden. Even after years of neglect, it exudes an undeniable magic, a testament to the brilliance of its creator, Major Lawrence Johnston. The structure remains intact: a series of garden rooms unfolding with the rhythm and harmony of an Arts & Crafts design. And yet, within this familiar framework, an exotic world emerges.
Johnston (1871–1958), an American-born, English-educated plantsman, was a dedicated collector and the mastermind behind Hidcote Manor in the Cotswolds. His passion for plants knew no bounds, and even when Serre de la Madone was rediscovered in 1990, over 30 years after his death, it still contained over 1,000 species. Today, under the stewardship of the Conservatoire du Littoral, that number has grown to over 5,000. Restoration is ongoing, carefully guided by Johnston’s original plans. It is, quite literally, a Sleeping Beauty being awakened.
We visited in early February when the garden was subdued. I can only imagine the explosion of scent and color that must come later in the year. I can’t wait to return!
Domaine des Colombières
If you have the chance, do not miss this remarkable private garden. Unlike Serre de la Madone, it was not designed by an Englishman but by Ferdinand Bac (1859-1952), a polymath who discovered garden design in his fifties. His vision was not of an exotic botanical collection but a space in harmony with the land. The garden, an extension of the house, unfolds as a journey – an homage to the Odyssey, the great Mediterranean epic.
Perched high above the sea, the views are breathtaking, elegantly framed by cypress, olive, and laurel, punctuated by citrus trees. Near the house, Bac replaced traditional boxwood parterres with Pistacia lentiscus, a nod to the local flora.
What struck me most was Bac’s reverence for place. This is not a garden imposed upon the landscape, but one born from it. Nowhere is this clearer than in the grand staircase descending the hill. At its base stands an ancient olive tree. When asked why he didn’t remove it, Bac simply replied, The tree was here first. Instead, he built around it. It is a place of beauty, intelligence, and deep respect for nature.
In 1994, the current owners purchased the estate in a state of neglect and undertook a meticulous restoration, guided by Bac’s original plans. Thanks to their efforts, the garden has been returned to its initial splendour, preserving the spirit and intent of its creator.
Jean Cocteau
Jean Cocteau (1889-1963)is something of a local hero in Menton. His presence is felt throughout the town, from the museum that bears his name to the Salle des Mariages in the town hall, a project he undertook in the 1950s.
A fixture of the Riviera’s artistic scene, Cocteau spent time here alongside Picasso, Matisse, and Fernand Léger. In 1956, Menton’s mayor sought an artist to lend the town a touch of creative glamour. Neighboring Vallauris had Picasso; Biot had Léger; Vence had Matisse. Menton needed its own star. Cocteau was offered carte blanche to transform the former courthouse into a wedding hall. His vision? A joyous, poetic space celebrating love in its many forms.
He painted the walls, the doors, even the leopard-print carpet. It is an enchanting place, full of light and life.
The City of Lemons
Menton’s most famous crop is its lemon, an IGP-protected variety known for its sweetness. Unlike ordinary lemons, you can bite into one as you would an apple – no puckering required.
Today, you’ll find Menton lemons in everything from olive oil to salt, soaps, liqueurs, and jams. And then there is the Fête du Citron, held every February and March.
Floats festooned with citrus parade through town, doubling the population as visitors flock to witness the spectacle.
Ironically, most of the lemons used for decoration are imported from Spain – a nod to just how precious the real Menton lemons have become.
Conclusion
Menton is a winter haven, rich in history and beauty. Whether you come for the gardens, the art, or the flavors of the Mediterranean, you will leave enchanted.
Ready to plan your trip to the Riviera or to other gardens in Europe?
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Write a comment
Nina Lobanov-Rostovsky (Tuesday, 11 February 2025 19:51)
Didn’t I tell you that Menton was a must?
Richard Taylor (Tuesday, 11 February 2025 22:07)
Meticulous and tantalising research, as always. Thank you for this delicious teaser. I can feel September’s warm breeze on my cheek already!