When planning garden tours to Portugal, there’s a place I nearly always include in our itinerary. It’s not the biggest name on the list, but it’s one of the most memorable. Tucked away in the sun-warmed hills of Azeitão, the Palácio da Bacalhôa is a treasure trove of history, horticulture, and a touch of the unexpected—including a poignant American connection.
So why do I love bringing guests here? Let me tell you.
A Garden-Lover’s Delight
First things first—it has a garden.
And not just a “walk-past-it-on-the-way-in” garden, but a charming parterre, hidden behind the palace, with clipped boxwood hedges, classical statuary representing the Four Seasons, and (this being Portugal) beautifully patterned tiles. There’s even a sundial—because what is a garden of the Enlightenment without a nod to time and knowledge?
For us garden aficionados, it’s a peaceful space that invites quiet reflection, a moment of stillness before the next discovery. But that’s just the beginning.
Layers of History, Local and Transatlantic
As soon as you step into the central courtyard, the palace whispers of its long history. It feels grand, but not intimidating—more like a gracious country retreat than a formal royal residence. And in fact, that’s exactly what it was.
Built in the 15th century as a royal retreat, Palácio da Bacalhôa lies on the Setúbal Peninsula, in the charming town of Azeitão (that’s Ah-zay-tow, if you’re wondering). The peninsula stretches south of Lisbon, just across the Tejo River. These days, it’s an easy trip from the capital—less than an hour by car—thanks to two modern bridges: the 25 de Abril Bridge, opened in 1966, and the sweeping Vasco da Gama Bridge, one of the longest in Europe, completed in 1998. But for centuries, there was no quick way across. Reaching the southern bank of the Tejo required a long detour inland to find a narrow crossing. This wasn’t a place for a casual afternoon jaunt—it was a true escape, the kind of spot where you stayed for days, not hours, to soak in the calm and countryside air.
Originally surrounded by citrus orchards—lemons and oranges basking in the sun—the land now supports vineyards. Rows of vines stretch across the flat landscape, adding to the sense of spaciousness and peace. And they aren’t just for show (more on that in a moment).
The Enchanting Lake House
To me, the most magical corner of Bacalhôa is the lake house. Picture this: a square man-made lake shimmering in the sun, fronted by a gracious pavilion. Inside, the rooms are tiled floor to ceiling, each space cooler than the last—once used for resting after a swim or simply escaping the summer heat.
It’s the kind of place where you linger, wine glass in hand, watching the light shift across the water. It’s both intimate and grand. And yes, we sometimes hold wine tastings here, even in the rain (which, trust me, only adds to the atmosphere).
A Woman with Vision: The Story of Orlena Scoville
Now here’s where things get especially interesting—particularly for my American guests.
By the 1930s, the palace had fallen into ruin. Enter Orlena Scoville (1887-1967), a wealthy American with a passion for tiles and ceramics. While researching in Portugal, she stumbled upon Bacalhôa and fell in love. It wasn’t for sale. But she persisted. And in time, she acquired the property and devoted more than 30 years of her life to restoring the palace, the lake house, and the gardens.
And during World War II, this place took on another role. Portugal was neutral, and Scoville—connected to the U.S. and already living in the palace—was asked by the United States Committee for the the Care of European Children to shelter children on their way from France to the United States. Bacalhôa became a waystation, a place of refuge and safety. You can still read the testimonies of some of these children when you visit. It’s moving—deeply so.
Few historical houses combine beauty, history, and humanitarian spirit quite like this.
Orlena Scoville died in the palace in 1967. Her legacy remains etched not only in the stone and tiles but in the lives she touched.
Wine, Food, and a Feast for the Senses
After Orlena died, the palace stayed in the family for about 20 years. Orlena´s grandson began the process of converting the former orchards around the palace to vineyards, selling the property in 2000 to one of Portugal’s major wine producers. That’s why today, a visit to Bacalhôa isn’t just about history or gardens—it’s also a celebration of wine.
Tastings are often held in the lake house (yes, that lake house), and even a rainy day can't dampen the pleasure. Afterward, lunch on one of the terraces rounds out the experience. Local dishes, great conversation, and views of vineyards and gardens—it’s Portugal at its most elegant and relaxed
Why I Keep Coming Back
Palácio de Bacalhôa may not be on every traveler's radar, but for those of us who love gardens, history, and a story well told, it’s unforgettable.
It’s where past and present intertwine, where a quiet American heroine made a difference, and where the soul finds rest among boxwood and tiles, lake breezes and lemon trees.
If you’re traveling to Portugal, don’t miss it. And if you’re coming with me—well, it’s already on the itinerary.
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